6/1  Harper’s Creek Shelter

22 mile day today.  Left at 7:20 and arrived here at 5:00.  Took about 1-1/2 hours worth of breaks (breakfast, lunch, resting at mile 19.5).  Beautiful, beautiful day.  Windy starting out and I wore my rain-jacket for warmth for several hours but NO RAIN!  Halleluiah!  At one point I noticed this guy following me.  He was very silent

and wouldn’t tell me his name.  He was about my height but dark.  He also wore a cap much like mine but it was also dark.  Well, the sun was so bright and wonderful that I soon forgot about this rude silent fellow that insisted on following me. 

 

Saw VT Pete at Tye River.  He was going to a B&B tonight.  Kiwi, Dreamwalker, Finch, Hamlet, and someone else here tonight.   I also crossed Cripple Creek.  The same one that inspired the bluegrass song by the same name.  Only two days till I meet Kathy and hopefully Debbie.  John K. too---I’m not sure.

 

 

 

6/2  Approx mile 841 Paul C Wolfe Shelter @ Mill Creek.

 

22.3 mile day.  Left at 8:15 and arrived at 6:00pm.  Not as many breaks though I was walking a little more slowly.  Especially over a particularly rocky section between about miles 8 and 12.  Enjoyed lunch at Three Ridges Overlook on the Blue Ridge with big Paw, Kiwi, Finch, and Dreamwalker. 

 

Today was simply a glorious day.  This makes the 2nd straight day with no rain.  What’s more it was sunny, cool and beautiful.  It almost makes one forget the cold and miserable days of the past 4 weeks….almost.

People here now:  Booble, Hamlet, Big Paw, Knee Pad, and two guys out for 10 days.  We all did the same mileage—we were all at the same shelter last night.  This is a great shelter a double decker that could sleep 20.  Has a super overhand and best of all it is next to a beautiful, rushing stream.  I would take pictures but my batteries ran out 2 days ago.  Too bad…There have been many lovely overlooks the past two days and as I’ve said the awesome weather has made everything look just that much better.  Almost forgot—this song has been rooming around in my head tonight.  I only know part of the words.  I don’t know if it came from the Friendswood Church or somewhere else.

 

I’m on top of the world looking down on creation

And the only explanation I can find

Is the love that I’ve found ever since you’ve been around

Is what’s put me right on top of the world.

 

God is certainly good! – Even or should I say especially when it rains.

 

June 3-5

 

[Scribe's note: Early on the morning of the 3rd, Jim arrived in Waynesboro.  He made no journal entries until he left town on…...]

 

 

June 6 - Calf Mountain shelter - 7 miles

It has been really nice hiking with her and also the time we spent together in town.  I've especially enjoyed sharing the small beauties along the trail with her.  It is nice to have the opportunity to spend an entire day walking and talking with my sister.


June 7 - Quality Inn at
Waynesboro

We came back to
Waynesboro today.  Having trouble finding a rental car for Kathy to get back to Nashville.  She is going to have to stay until Monday cause everything was closed when we got into town and they're not open on Sunday.  I'm not sure if I should stay with her or go on.  It's hard to stay this long in town but I'm leaning toward staying.  If I leave tomorrow, I'll have to redo the section I did with Kathy.  If I wait till Monday, I can skip that section and only be about half a day behind.  I'm just a little concerned that my momentum has been broken, but I guess one day won't make a difference.  I'll just have to get rolling again and maybe I can catch up with Cuba, Willow, Tank, and Slaughter.

 

 

June 8 - Quality Inn at Waynesboro

Only one more night and I can get back on the trail.  It's been almost one week and I feel a little nervous that I may have a problem after such a long break.  I'm sure as soon as I get moving again the nervousness’ will go away and everything will be fine.


I forgot to mention some of the highlights of the hike with Kathy.  We saw several snakes and Kathy even stepped on a small black one with a yellow band around its neck.  Kathy saw a good sized black bear cross the trail in front of us but I missed it because she was in front.  A very nice treat for her.  Finally we saw a doe and her very small fawn feeding on a hillside.  One of the nicest things on the trail were the wild roses.  Their fragrance often greeted us as we rounded a bend on the trail.  We even found some wild strawberries.  They were so much more flavorful than cultivated ones.

 

--

June 9 Blackrock Hut

Kathy left me at Jarmin Gap at about
2pm because we had to drive to
Charlottesville to find a rental car.  I was sad leaving her but happy to get back on the trail.

I got to the shelter to find 30 people there.  12 in the shelter + one on the picnic table.  There wasn't even a place for a tent which is what I wanted.  I was on my way out to find a spot further up the trail (at
7:30) when Willow gave me her spot in the shelter.  She went to share a tent with someone.

Was a very beautiful day.

We were kept up a little later than normal by the whip-poor-will that decided to roost next to the shelter and by the battle with the shelter rat.  This whip-poor-will had a much faster call than the ones in OK.  The OK birds have a call that is easy to recognize but I didn't this one right away.  "The shelter rat" was the size of a small terrier.  It must have weighed 12 pounds.  Vagabond and one of the Blues Brothers stayed up a little while throwing rocks at it but never made contact.


June 10 - Hightop Hut

Went 21.4 miles with a pit stop at the
Loft Mountain store and wayside (grill).  Not quite so many people here tonight - maybe 15.  Even though I was one of the first here I was forced to stay in the shelter ‘cause all the tent sites filled up before I started looking.

Another beautiful day today.


June 11 - Pass Mountain Hut

23.9 miles today, but that sets me up to do 15 tomorrow and then make the hostel the next day.

I enjoyed stopping at Lewis campground for a lunch break - ice cream and some microwave food (pizza and burrito).

I saw a bear just after leaving the campsite.  It ran 20 yards off the trail and then turned around and looked at me, so I got several pictures. I also saw two deer on different occasions right on the trail at a place that was steep on both sides of the trail.  They walked in front of me quite a while before they found a way off.
 
I was planning to hit the wayside at Big Meadows but I missed the trail.  Bummer!  When I realized my mistake, I didn't want to turn around and hike backwards.

As I walked down to the shelter I thought it was quite strange that a deer was circling me. As I got to the shelter, I saw that there was a dog there and it wasn't long before the dog was chasing the deer.  They actually seemed to be playing a game where the deer would go looking for the dog and then the chase would begin afresh.  This went on for about 20 minutes.  Finally, I saw the dog go after the deer and the next I knew here came the dog with the deer right on her tail.  She went yelping to her owner and that was the end of the game.  The deer however hung around the shelter for another couple hours.  It was actually panting and foaming at the mouth after the chase.


June 12 - Pass Mountain Hut

Hiked here with Mr. Maggoo and Josh. On the way we stopped at the Skyland Lodge for a delish breakfast.  I noticed that they put us way at the back of the restaurant away from the other patrons.  I wonder why :)

For lunch we stopped at Panorama but they didn't have a grill – only snacks.  We feasted on chips, cokes, and fudge.  We did get there just ahead of a rain shower, so we avoided getting wet today.

A couple days ago, Josh walked up on a mother bear and her cubs.  The mother growled at him but he made it by ok.  Soon afterwards, a copperhead struck at the back of his sandal as he walked by.  An eventful day!

The
Montana family, Glide and Disco, Sassafras, Flying Cricket and Handy Andy came in later to the shelter.

Hoping to make it to another wayside for breakfast tomorrow.


June 13 - Terrapin Hostel

23.2 miles today when you count the walk down to the hostel.

I hiked until a
10am breakfast with Josh and Mr. Maggoo (breakfast at the Elkwallow gap wayside).  I had an ice cream sandwich, cheese burger, coke, and 3/4 order of chicken tenders.  Later I had the remaining tenders for lunch.

 Made it to the hostel by
5:00pm and missed the worst of the rain.  I got rained on for about the last 20 minutes but got in before the bottom dropped out.

Mr. Maggoo was planning to come here but didn't make it.  I guess he went to the next shelter instead.

Oopala, Sean O, Wizard, Delta Blues, Disco and Glide are also here.

I forgot to mention that I saw another bear today.  This one saw me and took off into the woods; no pictures.  This one was all black while the other had a brown snout.  

 

 

June 14 - Jim and Mollie Denton Shelter


A 10 mile day. 

 

 I can't believe I let the Brady Bunch movie suck me in.  After getting back from the grocery, I watched the movie with Glide and Disco - very silly.  I almost stayed for the sequel which was on next but I managed to pull myself away.  Didn't get started until 2pm.  Glide and Disco haven't come in yet.  I can only assume they were Swallowed by the Brady vortex.

When I arrived, I walked up to the shelter to find a dad and his two sons spread out everywhere.  I was ready to be annoyed when they very quickly cleaned everything up.  They were very considerate.  They are out for 60 days and are going as far they can.  I hope they will be able to do it; they carry a lot of extra stuff and I think they are wearing cotton.  I sure hope this is a good experience for them.  It sure seems like a great opportunity for them.  I'll have to be praying for them.


June 15 - Rod Hollow Shelter

approx 19 mile day

I'm writing this 2 days later so I don't remember too much. It occurred to me as I was crossing a road that I felt the way I imagine animals feel.  A typical road crossing goes like this:

1.       Cautiously approach road with the feeling that you would rather not. 

2.       Rush across after looking both ways. 

3.       Experience a feeling of great relief as you enter the safety of the trees and are no longer visible from the road.

 

I arrived at the shelter thinking I might be alone but was actually happy to see that Pippi, her son Mike, and Baby Steps were there.  There were also three weekend hiker girls.  Later Spiff and Meow came in.  Somehow the conversation turned to abortion and I quickly discovered that I was completely outnumbered.  I kept quiet rather than starting an argument.


June 16 - Blackburn trail center

18 mile day

Walked over the "roller coaster"; a 13.5 mile section with 10 consecutive ups and downs.  It wasn't as bad as it had been made out.  I think I still did 2.5 or more miles per hour.  Before the roller coaster the trail was the worst I have seen it yet for mud.  It was a real bog for miles.
 
Monk and a couple that were perhaps the most ill prepared that I have ever seen were at the hostel.  The girl had luggage with a pull handle and wheels for a pack.  She had rigged it with a strap and belt.

Bill and Sarah ran the hostel connected with the trail center.  They were great people.  Bill is an ultra-runner.  He was quite animated about the sport.  It sounds very interesting - maybe I'll check into it.


June 17 - Harpers Ferry Hostel

Others here:  Mr Magoo, Nick, Gimp & Scrounger (the greyhounds), Rufus, Siesta, and a girl scout troop.  The girl scouts put on a show for some of us but I missed it.  It was nice to hear their laughter.  I have found myself missing the company of children.  This is something I hadn't expected.

Tada!  I made it to H.F.  Very exciting and satisfying feeling.  I signed the register and had my picture taken.  I'm the 358th thru hiker to come through so far. 

I saw that Buffalo Bobby and Ole Smokey Lonesome are only a day ahead.  I hope to catch up.

This hostel is very nice.  It is much more professionally run than most.  A member of American Youth Hostels.
     

 

June 18 - Dahlgren Back Pack Campground

16 miles
Others here:  Mr Magoo, Nick, Sherlock & Circuit Rider, Crazy Horse

I would have preferred to go on but since Mr Magoo has to head for home tomorrow I stopped here with him.  He will hike back to
Harpers Ferry.  He seems a little sad but he's going back out of concern for his wife.  He said she told him he could finish the trail, but they are moving to Idaho and he has to get her out there.  He said she did "the right thing" by offering to let him finish and now the right thing for him will be to go help his wife with the move rather than moving.


June 19 - Devil's Racecourse Shelter

18.4 miles.
 

I am by myself.

Had a toad for company while enjoying breakfast this morning.  I ate my food under the overhang of the camp bathroom (even had hot showers - a real luxury) since it rained last night and everything was wet.  The toad didn't have much to say so we ate in quiet.

The shelter was lousy so I got water from the spring and walked the .3 back up the hill.  I made my dinner and was considering going on when I heard thunder.  I finished eating because it sounded quite a ways off.  It got close quicker than I expected and I got my tent set up and everything inside just before it started raining.

I'm only two days away from Pine Grove Furnace, the half way point.  I think I am at about mile 1042.  I plan to celebrate by attempting entry into the Half Gallon Club (eating a half gallon of ice cream in one sitting) at Pine Grove.

I was thinking during my walk today that it would be nice to find a way to drive back from Kathadin.  There is so much civil war history around here that would be very interesting to see.  I wished I could have spent more time in
Harpers Ferry.  The first Washington Monument was quite nice.  It was erected by the citizens of Boonesboro, MD on July 4, 1827.  They marched up the mountain behind the stars and stripes to the music of fife and drum on the morning of July 4 to begin the work.


June 20,21 - Groovy's Parents house in Fayetteville

23 miles
Others here: Groovy, Medicine Man, Bag, and Fox.  Groovy's parents (Brenda & Randy), his brother Aaron, and girl friend Donna.

I guess I won't make it to Pine Grove as soon as expected.  I hadn't expected to stay here two nights but ... Oh well.  A thunderstorm rolled through  so I caved and decided to stay another night.  I am very anxious to get back on the trail, however.

His parents live only about .75 miles from the trail.  He invited me and three other guys to come by.  They fed us, washed our clothes, allowed us to take showers, and fed us, and fed us.  Such giving and wonderful people.

I hope to make it to Pine Grove Furnace (the half way point) tomorrow. 

 

 

June 22 - Pine Grove Furnace State Park

20 miles
Others here:  Goat, Turtle & Sprite

I left Groovy's parents at
9:00 and everybody except his mom were still asleep.  I stayed up till 11:30 watching "Amistad."  Don't know how late every one else was up.

Well I'm almost recovered from the half gallon challenge:  1/2 gallon of cherry jubilee in 1 hour and 10 minutes.  What was I thinking?  Oh the agony!

Gimp, Scrounger, and Goat also polished off their half gallons.  Sprite hit a wall with his peanut butter swirl and Turtle had a hard time with the mint chocolate chip (which she didn't like).  Let's just say she had room for more but no appetite after a trip to the bathroom.

Note: The Half-Gallon Club:  all you have to do is buy a half-gallon of ice-cream as soon as you arrive and eat it as fast as you can.  You are permitted to wash it down with hot coffee or soda if you have the stomach for it; the record is 12 minutes, 10 seconds set by “Jimmy Bee”, who must have had a major ice-cream headache afterwards…

 

I almost stayed at the hostel with Gimp and Scrounger but I just didn't want to pay the $20.  It sounded like a very nice place and it used to be one of the stops on the underground railroad.

I've reached the half way point - Hurray!

Was going to write about dragon skin and refreshing stories but the ice cream put me out of the mood - tomorrow.

 


June 23 - camp site just south of Boiling Springs

20 miles
Others here:  Buffalo Bobby, Sprite, Yo-Yo, Zero, and Dred.  Goat and Turtle got a B&B room in town.

Had lunch at the
Green Mountain deli and market, and dinner at a pizza place in Boiling Springs.  The springs are gushing up out of the ground to feed a local lake.  They say it puts out 22 million gallons daily.  This is a beautiful little town.

Enjoyed very much the time I spent with Goat, Turtle, and Sprite.  In fact I'm feeling bad cause they asked me to join them for dinner.  I explained that I had already eaten but maybe I would come by for a second dinner.  I didn't go by.  I feel like I should at least have gone by to say good bye to Goat and Turtle because they are getting off for a while.  Maybe I'll see them before they leave.

It was great to see Buffalo Bobby again.  I think we will be hiking the same miles for the next two days at least.  Might see if he wants to share a room in Duncannon.

No rain for the second day n in a row.  We even had summer temps today.  Yesterday was perfect hiking weather - cool and overcast. 

I finished "The Voyage of the Dawn Treader" a few days ago.  There were especially two parts that jumped out at me.  Firstly the part where Eustace gets turned into a dragon and then to get un-dragoned Aslan tells him to wash in a pool.  However he has to remove the dragon skin first.  Eustace tears off the skin only to find another beneath.  He tears off skin after skin with the same result until he finally gives up and Aslan tells him that Eustace must let Aslan undress him.  Aslan tears off the skin, not without significant pain for Eustace, completely and finally. 

This illustrated for me something in my own life.  Most everything has been striped away here on the trail but I still struggle with many of the same things because I can't get rid of the real source of the struggles - self.  I desperately need the mercy and help of Jesus to "undress" me.

I'll mention the other thing from the book tomorrow.


June 24 - Cove Mountain Shelter

21 miles
Others here: no one except me and the mosquitoes

Had quite the bucolic walk today through corn, wheat, hay fields, and dairy farms.  The first 12 miles was along a narrow corridor through the
Cumberland Valley. I really enjoyed the change of pace and it reminded me of home in OK.

Left
Buffalo Bobby at the last shelter but I'll see him in town tomorrow because we are both planning to stay at the Doyle Hotel.  On my way up to the first shelter, I ran clean out of steam.  I should have stopped for a snack and water break but I kept going.  As a result I was wiped and paid for it for the next several hours, even after eating lunch and drinking 40 oz of Gatorade.  Lesson learned, I hope.

On the way to this shelter I saw two dung beetles.  I would have expected to see them in the farm land but not on the mountain.  They looked just as I remember from OK - I think we used to call them doodle bugs.  I was amazed at how round the "prize" was that they were rolling back to their hole.

I am the only one at shelter and the mosquitoes are brutal so I set up my tent in the shelter.  It's
8:30 now.  Hope no one else shows up cause I'll have to break everything down and move outside.

 


June 25 - Doyle Hotel in Duncannon, PA

4 miles
Others here:  Buffalo Bobby, Gimp, Scrouger, Yo-Yo, Dred, Zero, Nimble, and his friend Andy

Yesterday while walking between the shelter where I left BB the Cove Mountain Shelter, I tore a hole in the side of my left shoe.  It was a rocky walk.  I hope they will last until Delaware Water Gap.  We shall see.  I've asked Larry to send my boots to Port Clinton just in case.

Right now I am at the Doyle Hotel in Duncannon.  It is an old Anheuser-Busch hotel complete with the bar downstairs.  The rooms are quite bare - just a bed, table, chair, and no air conditioning.  Under normal conditions this would be a dive but it's great because it's only $15.  The plaster is coming off the walls and ceilings and I saw mouse evidence in the closet (acorns and other stuff).  There are two bathrooms per floor.  It has a spiral type stair well that allows you to see all the way down to the bottom from the top floor.  I still enjoy the atmosphere because it reminds me of the old west movies.  I'm sitting in my room staying off the hunger with spoonfuls of peanut butter.  A lady who calls herself Trail Angel Mary invited all us hikers to her house for dinner.

Buffalo Bobby encouraged me again without knowing it.  He has been reading Revelation and was talking about the seriousness of this life in Jesus.

Cool - Buffalo Bobby just handed me insect repellant from the hiker box.  It’s
Avon skin-so-soft, just what I was hoping to find.

I'm hoping that there will be a little league game at the park I walked by coming into town.  For some reason I have been wanting to see a little league game for the last several days.  Just not sure if they will play on a Wednesday night; more likely that they play on weekend nights.

Guess I'll mention the other part from "The Dawn Treader" that was an encouragement.  Lucy had been reading in a magician's book on the island with the Duffers.  She came across a store for the refreshment of the spirit and it truly was just that for her.  Unfortunately, she could not remember the story once finished. Later she asked Aslan if he would tell it to her and he replied, yes he would "for years and years."  What a beautiful thought.  It reminds me of two separate passages that I can't quite quote but I'll try to get close: "We shall be like him for we will see him as he is."  "We will Him know as we are known."  It all seems to revolve around being with our Savior.  Even in the book, it was not so much the telling of the story but that He would be telling it. 

 

 

June 26 - Peter's Mountain Shelter

11 miles

Others here:  Buffalo Bobby, Yo-Yo, Dred, Zero, + a large group (maybe 15).  Gimp and Scrounger were here earlier for a couple hours but have to get to Delaware Water Gap by the 3rd so they went on.

I was quite fatigued when I arrived today even though it was such a short hike.  Must be the heat.  I'll adjust to it soon enough.  I plan to start getting up at 5 and leave by
6am.

I enjoyed very much the conversation with Buffalo Bobby, Gimp & Scrounger (even if Gimp & Scrounger are Canadians ... Just kidding Momma)

This is a very nice shelter; another memorial shelter.  The water source is a full 800 yards down the mountain and about 300 ft elevation drop.  It is, however, a very nice spring.  I counted 293 steps and Gimp counted 297.  The Susquehanna trail club must have spent days and days building the trail down to the spring.

Started out in the shelter but the heat and mosquitoes drove both BB and I to set up our tents.


June 27 - Rausch Gap Shelter

17.5 miles
Others here: Buffalo Bobby, Zero, Dred, Yo-Yo, Smiley & Downhill (father and 10 or 12 yr old son), 2 section hiker sisters from FL.

It's a very different night from last night.  Yesterday evening was quite hot and muggy but tonight it is cool and very pleasant.  It was 80 deg this morning at
5:30 ... not anymore.  There must be a front coming through which means we are likely to get rain soon.

Fairly easy hike here, mostly flat.  It was pretty rocky at times.  We walked on an old stagecoach road for 4 or 5 miles.  That must have been some kind of rough ride because it was down the mountain and quite rocky.  For us, however, it was a nice walk.

This was coal mining country during the 1800's and there was at least one village along our route.  There is nothing left of the village but we passed several huge slag heaps that have been around long enough for trees to grow on them.  In fact I have a suspicion that we are tenting on top of an old slag heap that has been leveled off.  It seems to be all small slate like rock with little pieces of coal mixed in.

Zero saw a rattlesnake today.  Unfortunately I wasn't walking with her when she saw it.  I had been just 30 minutes before.  I hope to see one later.  I want my sisters to know that I'm not carrying a zapper but I do have a sharp stick for defense.

Had an enjoyable conversation over chai tea and semi-sweet chips with Buffalo Bobby and Dred.


June 28 - PA 501 shelter

17.4 miles
others here: Buffalo Bobby, Chimpy, Dred, Zero, Yo-Yo, Gimp & Scrounger

I
was thinking today while listening to the birds about their praise ascending to the Father.  Many people would say that the birds are not praising God, they are just doing what they were made to do.  I think that's just the point.  Doing what they were designed to do is a praise to their Creator.  Doesn't Jesus say something like this in John - if we keep his commandments we will abide in him.  God help us.

We ordered pizza from the shelter using Dred's cell phone and they delivered it to a parking area close to the shelter.  Quite a treat.
 

June 29 - Eagle's Nest Shelter

15.1 miles
Others here:  Buffalo Bobby, Stephanie & Bethany, Captain Bill, Two men out for one night

Hiked double time from 501 shelter to PA 183 because the Blue Mountain Eagle Climbing Club was putting on a free lunch trail magic event.  They do this only once per year and we happened to hit it just right. It was Stephanie's birthday so was even more special for her.  Gimp, Scrounger, Zero, Yo-Yo, and Dred were also at this lunch.  

 

There was an older lady there that kept commenting on our skinny conditions.  When Gimp and Scrounger walked up, she said "oh what a limp he has, and the other one looks just awful."  She made several comments of this sort and when I told her I hadn't lost weight but always looked this thin, you should have seen the look of horror on her face.  I guess her idea of healthy is a little plump.  Anyway she wasn't an exactly encouraging person to talk with.

Gimp and Scrounger went on past this shelter and the others didn't make it here.  At least not yet.

This may be the last evening I spend with Buffalo Bobby because he plans to stay a couple days in Port Clinton.  One never knows, perhaps we will meet up again the Good Lord willing (as Bobby would say).  I'll definitely make certain to give him my address.

As a matter of record in case I need to know later, I pulled what may have been a deer tick off my waistband this morning.  It seemed slightly engorged but also seemed too big for a deer tick so I am not certain which type it was.  I found it in the privy which happened to be a port-a-john.  Instead of thinking and taking it into the shelter for closer exam, I dropped it into the blue water while saying "Mwa Ha Ha Ha die scum" (or something of the sort).


June 30 - Port Clinton St John's UCC pavilion and picnic area

9ish miles
Others here:  Buffalo Bobby, Stephanie, Bethany, Collette, & Nick, Sonya and their dad

I had planned to go on another 6 miles tonight but it was so peaceful here and I may not see Bobby again so I decided to stay here and spend one more night with him.  He is planning to stay here a few days to rest up and recuperate.  I'm sure it will be a sad farewell tomorrow.  I have been truly blessed to spend these many days with him.  Perhaps the Lord will allow us to meet up again.

This is a very small but quaint town.  One of my old bosses emailed and asked me to call him.  I was planning to call from here since I left Duncannon too early.  However, there is no payphone in town.  As one of the locals said, you can't buy milk or a stick of butter but there are 4 bars.