5/1
I think I’ll
do two smaller days and then 1 long one after this. I was trying to skimp on snacks and was very
low on energy. Now I think I’ll hitch in
to
At the shelter with Steama, Elisabeth, Amanda,
and
My favorite
part about today’s hike was
I’ve enjoyed
visiting with Amanda, Elisabeth and Steama.
5/2 Overmountain
Shelter
Named for the overmountain men.
I took a picture of the plaque.
The shelter is a red barn that’s been converted. I’m told it was either built for or renovated
for a Kurt Russell movie Winter Peoples.
This shelter has the most spectacular view so far. It looks out on a beautiful valley. I walked in and 15 minutes later I enjoyed
watching a thunderstorm roll through.
Afterwards the sun came out partially and then the clouds started
rolling over the mountain, into the valley and over the next mountain. The top are cloud covered but the valley
remains clear. I also enjoyed looking
out over the valley. There was a dark
cloud above that ended in a horizontal line above the valley. Below the cloud you could see that the valley
was in sunshine.
I’ve been
able to see from the relative comfort of the shelter that there is great beauty
even in the rainstorms and certainly afterwards.
What about
the walk here. The hike up roan mountain was pretty difficult. Again, though not so much as Unaka, the pine forests made me think I might be on the
borderlands of the fairy kingdom. No
view from Roan and only a partial view from Round Top Bald due to the weather.
Steama,
Elizabeth and Amanda went on in order to make it into
5/3
Sitting at the top of a meadow just in the tree line.
Stopped for lunch a couple miles north of 19E. I’ve just come thru an absolutely gorgeous
section. High
elevation meadows that sometimes look down on the valley below. Even without the view of the valley it’s
wonderful up here. Wildflowers are
blooming, birds are singing, the dogwoods are in bloom and there is a nice
spring breeze and just enough sun to make you want to take a nap in the
meadow. In fact, I passed Steama down below doing just that. J Oh, I forgot to mention the blue skies and
abundance of puffy white clouds.
This more than makes up for the absence of a view from Roan and
5/3 Staying at Laurel Fork (I think)
This is a
20-22 mile day. I’m not really sure how
far I went. I found a beauty spot next
to a little creek. Then Dirty Frank came
along (he’s become somewhat notorious for his beer runs) and I was bummed cause
I had to share “my” spot with him. Also
it forced me to be on kind of a slope.
However, after talking with him for the past couple hours,
I realize he’s just an ordinary guy. Not
I’m happy to share this spot with him. Even if I’m not on level ground.
I enjoyed
the re-routed trail. It took us by
I forgot to
mention about
P.S. I must confess I was complaining to myself
about the wet mist and the wind at least part of the way. I didn’t see or think about the North Wind
until afterwards.
5/4 and 5/5 Kincora Hostel
Hiked the 10-12 miles to USFS 50. During the
morning walk, I started thinking about how much Daddy would have enjoyed
this. I’m confident he would be very
happy and excited for me. He surely
would have planned at least one trip to see me while on the AT. All this thinking made me miss him afresh –
more than I have in a while. I was
feeling a little downhearted until I remembered something I read once. I can’t remember the story but I will try to
relate what I was thinking.
It’s like we
are here in a desert almost gasping for fresh water. This trip for me seems to bring me a little
closer to the source of that water.
Anyway, we are all in the same situation and sometimes our Lord chooses
someone to take to a land of living water flowing with milk and honey. We want to hold on to them and keep them from
going, but how can we? Would I want to
be kept and held in the desert land?
I’m not
relating it very well but I was given great comfort and for a time felt (as we
say) the presence of the Lord. I don’t
think much changes except maybe we open a door a crack
and allow His light to shine in.
I enjoyed my
stay at the hostel very much. The
fellowship and camaraderie was quite enjoyable.
Lots of people were there – some new and some familiar. Steama, Moo &
42, Wrong Way, Dimple Rock, Foxey, RedBeard, Face and Blaze, Odyssey, Willow, Rocky,
Searching, Tripper and Still Bill, Puffy and ???, etc.
Did a slack
pack from 321 South to 50 (9 miles). The
Need to
check Steama’s web site in about 3 weeks and download
pictures of the hostel and crowd. www.trailjournals.com/steama. If somebody reads this and could do that for
me I’d appreciate it.
Also Moo
& 42 have pictures of a cool spiral rock
“stairway.”
5/6 Double Spring Shelter
Had hoped to
go 26 today to make for a shorter day tomorrow but the weather report and my
tired feet changed my mind. Only 23.
Will head into
I had a very
spiritual day today!
I found
myself singing –
There was an
old lady who swallowed a fly.
I don’t’
know why she swallowed a fly.
I guess
she’ll die.
There was an
old lady who swallowed a spider,
That
wriggled and jiggled and tickled inside her.
Etc…
Almost
forgot –
He said he
was walking the trail this year with some red ribbons for making new trail when
a hiker passed him and asked what he was doing.
He said with a straight face “looking for more ups and downs to put in
the trail” The
hiker didn’t say another word and just went on his way J. I think Steama got
some pictures (including me) when we were listening to these stories.
5/7 The place in
Very easy walk (18 mi) into town today.
Crossed the TN/VA line and got a picture. However, it was more exciting for me to walk
into
Ran into Ole Smokey Lonesome, Rocky, Steama,
Odyssey, and great to see Buffalo Bobby again.
Nomad and JoJo were here (they gave me lots of
good advice back in Erwin. They’ve both
hiked the trail multiple times).
Planning to
check out a lighter pack at the outfitter’s tomorrow. Not sure if I’ll come back for Trail Days or
not. Would like to in some ways and in
other – just move on.
Had two dinners. Still hungry after the first so
I went and had a calzone at the Pizza place.
5/8 A campsite about 12 miles north of
Didn’t get out of town until about
I called
Mahoney’s in
I’m sitting
here at a beauty spot next to a little pond and under some pines listening to
the peep, peep, peep of the frogs. This is the first time I’ve camped by myself
since I started and it’s wonderful. Was
hoping to see the start tonight but I don’t know if I can stay up for it. I’m pretty tired.
5/9
Rhododendron Gap Campsite.
Looks like
I'll get this place to myself till everyone gets here tomorrow. I'm in my
normal campsite and it almost makes me feel like I'm just out for the weekend
again.
I saw the
albino deer again and got a decent picture. Earlier today I saw two
exceptional birds. The first was a brilliant yellow with black wing tips
and the second a brilliant blue with black tips – no pictures though.
At this
moment the skies are clear. Hope this means good weather for tomorrow
when everyone comes out.
Switched to
an alcohol stove while at
Before I
forget, I met a neat family the other day.
I also ran
into Buffalo Bobby in town. But he is ahead of me again cause I took so long to leave. I may never catch him
since I'm taking a zero day here. He doesn't seem to do zero's.
That's why he's ahead though he does fewer miles at a time. Who knows,
maybe I'll catch him again.
The new pack
is great! Now if I can just get my shoe situation worked out.
5/10
Rhododendron Gap
I'm sitting
in my tent at about
I had a
flour tortilla, Snickers, and peanut butter sandwich for breakfast. Good
- though not as tasty as the omelet I had before leaving
I had gone
to [a local inn] because it looked like I might be able to get a good cheap
meal. It was basically just a bar and as I sat there eating my meal
awhile, the proprietor cursed at her 12 yr. old son for purposely missing the
school bus. This went on for some time and likely continued after I
left. Before she started getting on to him I was shocked to hear language
he used. Leaving there I was thinking "It's no wonder he has trouble
in school." I left feeling sorry for both of them and for Christie
of whom it reminded me. I just read something that brought the whole
episode back to my mind and gives me hope! "Seeing the people, He
felt compassion for them, because they were distressed and dispirited like sheep
without a shepherd." God have mercy on us for we are in desperate
need of a shepherd.
5/11 Raccoon
Branch Shelter
Hiked down to Massie Gap with John, Jim, Larry, & Jacob. Called Mount
Rogers Outfitters to check into getting new shoes from them. (I called Mahoney's yesterday. They
don't have my size but said they will refund my money if I get shoes
elsewhere.) MRO didn't open till
Ended up going about 22 miles today. I had intended to stop at 18.5
but the campsite was 1/2 miles off the trail. When I saw that I decided
to keep going. And I am tired. About 18-20 of that was after I left
John and Jim. Walked through a pretty Rhododendron
section. Stopped to take a picture of a Rhododendron blossom and
there was a small snake 1-1/2 feet away,
Getting too dark to write. Odyssey, Noah, and Big E are at Shelter. Looks
like Noah is planning a big pizza and beer party at the next shelter (there is
a phone close by). I will certainly partake of the pizza!
5/12 Chatterfield Shelter
Hiked 20 miles again without intending. All pretty
easy. Walked to the Partnership shelter and ordered an extra large
ham/pineapple pizza with 2 liter Pepsi. I split it with Seeds. Was still hungry after eating half. I left before the
party at the Partnership shelter got started ‘cause I wanted to get up the
trail.
Larry wasn't
able to find the shoes at REI. I feel bad because I never intended for
him to go into the store. I had meant for him to use the internet.
When he left yesterday everything was hectic being it had started pouring
rain. Since Larry wasn't able to find the shoes I called Debbie and asked
her to look on the www. I enjoyed sitting around the fire with Strap Pack, Fire
Angel, and Last Minute, but I was too tired to stay up as late as the
rest. Time to turn in!
Next morning, 5/13. It's pretty cold though not so much as last
night I'd guess somewhere mid to high 30s. I'm wishing I had waited to
switch to my warm weather sleeping bag. Well at least I kept my warm
clothes. I wore everything in my pack except the rain-jacket.
5/13
Ahh...I'm
sitting next to a stream in camp at
Talked to Debbie :) on the phone and she so wonderfully took care of my
shoe problem.
The new shoes will be in Bland when I get there (or should be). She also
ordered a Hennessey Hammock and a pocket mail which will be in
Pearisburg. The Pocketmail was only $13 on
E-bay. Yeah Debbie! Or should I say, Yeah SSM! Now all I have
to do is mail the "boat" size shoes back to
Well, now
for a little reading. When I last left the Horse and his Boy, they were
making their escape (1st chapter). 20 or 25 tomorrow??
We shall see. I just met Wanderer. He is heading South.
Started somewhere in NY and hooked up with the AT in
Oh, I forgot
to mention that I had a double cheeseburger at DQ. I found it humorous
that it looked on the smallish side to me. That,
fries, and a blizzard filled me up and then I topped it off with an
apple. Mmm mm good.
5/14 Chestnut
Knob Shelter
Beautiful, beautiful day today. Cool, clear, and sunny with some clouds to keep
the sun from getting too hot. I believe Chestnut Ridge was the
highlight. Gorgeous weather and glorious view.
I stopped on the ridge next to a spring fed pond to get water. Set
up my poles and rain jacket for a little shade and my pack for a pillow. Had a nice relaxing time watching the clouds and reading my book.
I think it took me an hour to walk from the pond to the top of the bald because
the view was so nice. There was no one around so I took a picture of
myself "relaxing" because it was such a great place. Must go
out now and try for a sunset picture. The picture?
Not so sure. But the real thing was glorious. The clouds resembled
burning embers. Or mountains aflame with lava.
This shelter
is an old Fire Warden's cabin. Very nice stone building
with glass windows and a door. I think it has the best view of any
shelter I've been in yet. Right at the top of the knob.
4410 feet. Odyssey and I were alone in this nice
big shelter. It rained early morning which made me thankful for a warm
dry building. I was warm for the first time in days.
Batch
stopped in at about
5/15 VA
615-Laurel Creek Campsite
Been dodging the rain all day. I walked up to Jenkins shelter about
I arrived
first to find a cooler filled with fruit juice. Yeah! Odyssey and
Romeo came in next. Just as we got our tents set up a thunderstorm was
upon us. The three of us were able to get all our gear in the dry before
it hit. Coyote and Last Minute came in during the rain. It's
slacked off some and I think they are getting their tents set up now.
Odyssey
brought me over a grape juice. This seems a little silly but I had just
finished a Clif Bar and the grape juice reminded me
of communion. So even though I'm away from everyone, I'm going to
"have communion." I need to add how grateful I am to the Lord
for the rain-dodging today. It's nice to keep dry.
5/16 Jenny Knob Shelter
Uhg,
clouds, mist, Spider-Ok, town, John.
Provision/kindness/water/ Day hikers, glowing, chorus, cooler
(sorry if this isn’t
what you wrote James, your journal entry
was hard to descipher)
5/17 Wood’s Hole Hostel
Buffalo
Bobby, EZ Does it, Jim (Quiet Man)
20.4 miles + 0.5 down to the hostel.
Drizzling rain and mist all day. Turned cold by about
Now that
I’ve had the breakfast I don’t know how to thank Miss Tillie enough. I will need to send a thank you note as a
postcard from
5/18 Motor Lodge in Pearisburg.
I think this
might be the coldest day I’ve had so far.
Cold, blowing rain walking across the ridge. This
rain sent the cold right to my bones.
I’m glad I only had 10 miles to town.
Was planning
to stay at the hostel at the far end of town, when I walked in I went straight
to a gas station and picked up a cappuccino coffee. It helped.
On my way to the hostel I ran into Ole Smokey Lonesome. He invited me into his room to warm up
because I was shivering. This helped me
decide to just spend the $34 for a hotel.
I’m glad I did.
Had the buffet at a pizza place. Legion walked
in just to talk and I spent the next hour or two just visiting with him at the
pizza place, a discount store, and Hardees for a
milkshake. Was completely stuffed
afterwards and had to pass on the Chinese buffet. Watched “Mr. Smith Goes to
5/19 Holy Family Hostel in Pearisburg.
Walked the 2 miles or so from hotel to hostel, after having breakfast
with Buffalo Bobby, Ole Smokey Lonesome, and Batch.
I had planned to get back on the trail today but I had to walk to the
hostel to pick up my hammock, which got shipped there by mistake. I’m glad I stayed because I felt quite
fatigued today.
Looks like I
should have waited to get my re-supply food.
After I bought my stuff, everyday went through their re-supply boxes and
added to the hiker box. Maybe I’ll
remember next time …sigh. Del Schecktoly came in to introduce himself. He handed out business cards that say
something like Del-trail Angel. He told
us to call him when we get to Daleville.
My
dilemma--- should I use my tent or hammock for the next week? Will it be too cold for the hammock? Sure would be nice to reduce my pack weight.
5/20
Decided to use the hammock. When I got to the
shelter several people helped me set it up.
I discovered that it is the large size.
I might try and trade it for a smaller size. The shelter was packed—there must have been
25 people in the shelter and tenting out.
Had some very nice vistas today. Lolling into
5/21
Rained all day. But the hammock held up fine to
the rain this morning. Rocks, rocks, everywhere.
It took me longer to hike this 18+ miles than
the 20+ yesterday. Looks like I’m
hooking up with EZ Does It for a while.
5/22 Niday
Shelter
Stopped
short of where I originally intended to go.
Miserable weather today. Cold and wet. No rain after the morning but just
misty. Walked across the ridge (I think
called Lost Spectacles) where the path was rock slanted 30-45 degrees down
hill. Would have been a nice view but as
it was I could only see white. EZ Does
It and I stopped here and Batch decided to go on. He wanted to get closer to Catawba, which is
where I’m planning to go tomorrow. I
actually hope I can get on my own again until Kathy joins me.
5/23 Hour Pines Hostel—Catawba
Left at
Dragon Tooth
was pretty difficult but fun. Had to climb all the way up on a rocky path. Then climb down hand-over-hand for 20-30
minutes. I was planning to go on past
the hostel but changed my mind after the tough hike today. Actually I quite enjoyed the rock hike/climb
both today and yesterday.
I’m looking
forward to the Home Place Restaurant today—an all you can eat place. Lots of people here. Batch; Buffalo Bobby, Easy Does It, Stripes,
VT Pete, Gazer, Bree, and others that I don’t know
yet. I ate so much at the Homeplace that my stomach feels like a grapefruit. Joe’s 15 yr. Old son drove us (in 3 trips) to
the restaurant, we had 10 people crammed in the back (no seats) and he drove at
what seemed like 65-70 mph. Had chicken,
roast beef, mashed potatoes, green beans, and blueberry cobbler.
From a book
in the hostel---
If you’ll go
with me to the mountains
And sleep on
the leaf carpeted floors
And enjoy
the bigness of nature
And the
beauty of all out-of-doors,
You will
find your troubles all fading
And feel the
Creator was not man
That made
lovely mountains and forests
Which only a Supreme Power can.
When we
trust in the Power done
And with the
realm of nature hold fast,
We will have
a jewel of great price
To brighten our lives till the last.
For the love
of nature is healing,
If we will
only give it a try,
And our
reward will be forthcoming,
If we go
deeper than what meets the eye.
Emma Grandma
Gatewood
“The Reward Of Nature”
48 people
here tonight. 30 thru hikers and 18 high
school group outside.
The Homeplace was a glorious thing. The food was served “family style” in bowls,
when we emptied a bowl they brought out another. I had 3 or 4 helpings of mashed potatoes, 1
large chicken breast, 2 slices of roast beef, 2 helpings of green beans,
innumerable biscuits, several glasses of the best lemonade and 2 helpings of
blueberry cobbler with ice cream all for $12.
5/24 Lamberts Meadow Campsite.
This marks
about mile 704.
Who is here:
5/25 Best Western in Daleville
Shared a room with Easy-Does-It. It’s
Had a nice leisurely walk down into town yesterday.
I was feeling discouraged about my lack of progress with Jesus when I
came up on Buffalo Bobby. He started
talking about the creation and the flood.
He quoted from somewhere in Hebrews about the seen coming from the
unseen, and we were marveling on how great our Lord must be to create what we
consider such a beautiful world. I
mentioned that I was reading the Chronicles of Narnia
and he said one of his favorite parts was when the Marsh Wiggle “overcame” the
white witch’s fog in the underworld. The
“fog” kept them from seeing reality so they thought there was
no sun, no overworld and no Aslan. We conversed about how much this world is
like that fog. We both were longing to
see through it and talked about how we sometimes get glimpses. Why oh why do we ignore the eternal for this
temporary junk. I was so encouraged that
for this brief walk with F.B. the Lord allows even lowly me to spend some time
with Him and B.B. in the eternal. My
loving Father willing, I hope to spend some more with him before I meet
Kathy. Maybe I’ll get to share a room
with him again. As Loren Helm or Jerry
Man would say B.B. and I had a little meeting up there on the mountain and did
some reviewing. It was a very precious
time.
5/26 Black Horse Gap
Waited in town until the outfitter opened but they didn’t
have what I needed (The smaller hammock).
I will either get the small hammock or the Sierra Design one-man tent in
EZ Does It is an amazing person – he has the best memory of
anyone I’ve eve met (at least as far as I can remember :). This is his third thru-hike and he can
remember sections of the trail like he was there yesterday. He remembers details about the town. Just today he walked into the outfitter in
Daleville and remembered the guy’s name behind the counter. (from
a year ago). He is retired… was the
senior sergeant for the entire
Just wanted to write a note about
Stripe and Sean since I neglected to the other day.
Stripe is from
5/27
18.2-mile day.
Mile 744.
This is a great shelter.
Three level – a very nice design.
I need to take some pictures.
Another wet and cold day.
Hiked 5 miles to the shelter and had breakfast. Started pouring rain so we (
I’m very thankful to be in the shelter. Hope I’m able to go to Jack’s parents’ the
day after tomorrow.
5/28 Marble Spring Campsite
Approx 17 mile day today.
Also camping here:
5/29 Glascow
Stayed the night at Jack Sayles’
parents’ place at
I called Jack’s parents and they were happy to come pick me
up. Billy and Loren were with them. It was such a treat to go back to their
house. I was able to do laundry and have
a good shower. I’ve only met them once
and they treated me like an old friend.
Eating delicious home cooked food around the table with a family was
more than I could ask for. It was a very
nice night.
5/30
Got a late start since I was coming
from the Sayles place. I’m not about to complain about
starting late because they showed me such kindness in driving the 3 hour round
trip to pick me up and drop me back off.
Beautiful weather today. I was able to do about 20 miles in about 8
hours. From
5/31 Hog Pen Gap
Only went about 8 or so today. Waited until
I was dragging today and had eaten most of my snacks by the
time I got to the gap. I saw (through
the mist) what
looked like a huge tarp. (I should
mention here that on